I normally launch & load my 26' Wellcraft Nova by myself.  Without the guides, I believe there would have been a lot of Kodak moments at my ramps.   You are here, because you need them or have some apprehension about yours.  Hopefully this page will motivate you to make your own.

I have a long foredeck and the guides help me in locating the trailer in dirty water.   They show me how deep to back down the ramp.   They center the boat on the trailer since I set them snug against the rub rail.   These are very sturdy and the upper contact part is a roller, not a flimsy flexible rub pole.  The rollers will not scratch your hull or rub rail. 
IMHO, most store bought guide-ons are either to flimsy, the wrong height, and just plain horrible.   I wanted something better.  So, as a quick winter project, I decided to build my own.  These can be made for less the $20.00. (not including lights) and save you so much grief.  

Whenever you try to shop for PVC parts for a project, other then plumbing, there is always a problem with fits.   So, I had to do some redneck engineering.   Since your boat and trailer are different from mine, I have not dimensioned anything.   The overall height/length should be heigher then your rub rail height, when the boat is at rest in the water. The roller lenght should be the difference of your rub rail height at the bow and below the rub rail height at the stern. I added 8 inches to the actual distance.

	This is one of the finished Guides.   You can see the fixed skirt at the bottom of the roller. Mine are 68" tall with 35" rollers.
	Here is your parts list: 1 @ 10' x 2" PVC pipe. 1 @ 10' x1.75 PVC pipe. 1 @ 10' x 1.25" PVC pipe.             (schedule 80 if possible) 2 @ 2 1/4" Toilet Tank Seals (donut) PVC Primer PVC Glue 4' of 1.25 sq. tubing I had the square steel tubing from the original set.
	"B" are bearing races I made from the left-over 2" PVC. Cut about 3/4' of an inch away.   Fit/squeeze it to the inside of the 2" roller.   It is the bearing race for the inside of the 2" roller tube.
	Glue "B" about 1/2" down on the inside of both ends of the outer PVC roller.
	This is a piece of straight joint connector that was cut off about 3/4". One joint connector will give you the 4 inner races.
	After the inner tube "E" was inserted into the outer "F", the inner races are glued to both ends.  Leave a little 1/8" space.
	Here I have the 1.25" PVC main pole inserted in the 1.25" Steel tubing bend and the roller assembly.
	Here is the skirt collar to cover the top of the steel 1.25" sq. tubing and the lower bearings. The pilot holes are drilled to screw the main pole, inner tube, collar, and sq. steel tubing all together
	Looking at the opposite end
	The end cap goes on the 1 1/4" main pole.   It keeps the roller in place. I glued mine, but in retrospect I would put in a SS screw.   The rubber Toilet Tank Seal is glued to the 2" roller Note: I am changing the top caps for a butt connector in order to install some LED lights. (see below)
	Finished lower assembly
	Finished upper assembly
	Frame Clamp (saddle bracket) Square U-bolts would work fine.
	Mounted
	Mounted
	End View
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